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Sounds like this is a workable solution, though a lot of work.  I just use basement humidity to slow the drying, wrapping in paper and stacking on edge to allow almost every part exposed.

Two other things help: since a piece is likelier to crack the thicker it is, (a) leave it thicker at the rim and thinner as you cut down to the base, and (b) open grain species like red oak require the 10% thickness rule but with many species you can get away with a thinner rim for drying rough.  I do sometimes have a problem if I leave the tenon too fat.

This information was originally posted by Roger Becker as a frequently asked question. I have moved it to the Discussion Forum to make it more visible. The FAQ section will be reserved for website use questions.

I have had trouble with rough turnings cracking.

After some experimenting here is what I have found and am doing that seems to work.

 

First it depends on how wet the rough turnings are.

 

If they are real wet (over 15%), I place them in paper bags with shavings from the turnings, no sealer. I turn the bowls upside down when I place them in the bag with wet shavings all around them. I usually on put one per bag although it they are small I am put a couple in one bag. Then I store them on Rubbermaid wire (closet) shelving that I have attached to the ceiling of my shop. I think it is important that the air can circulate around the bag as I have found when I set them on a shelf or a table, the top of the bag would feel dry and the bottom would feel damp. When the moisture level has dropped to about 15% I take them out of the bag and store them on the same shelving, upside down. I have found the maple needs to be watched as the spalting can start or increase in the damp bag. You may want this or not want it.

 

I do use a cheap pin type moisture meter ( General and about $30 from Amazon). It seems that when the moisture content gets down to about 15% it is safe to store them on the wire shelving upside down to complete the drying process. The wire shelving seems to help the drying process and I have found that I can finish turn some of them in a month or two. If they are about 15% when I rough turn them, I put them directly on the wire shelving.

 

I have only been doing this for a few months but it seems to be working out well with the maple and cherry I have been working with.

 

Roger Becker